Trip to virgin lands......Somaliland.......(May 16,2011)
The real journey began after 6 hours after leaving home, when we left terminal 1 of Dubai Airport to reach Terminal 2. It took us 30 minutes to figure out the way to the place where we could exit terminal 1. One of team members supposedly our" lost professor” literally got lost and we requested airport authorities to make announcement which they refused and made faces at us saying at how could a 40 year Man loose himself on a airport. Any ways we got reunited and exited the Terminal 1.
From Airbus 345 to a super huge taxi to 14 ft by 12 ft lift suddenly for the first time in our trip we came across this 20 seater bus worst than the one which is used for metro drops in Delhi. We still went on and driver after getting that minivan full unloaded us at terminal 1.which seemed so familiar as it was exactly like terminal 1 of Delhi airport something like 10 years back.
We were supposed to wait for nearly 7-8 hours and waiting lounge was carefully designed not to have anything which could comfort the passengers. I understood Dubai Govt doesn’t like transit passengers. Any ways we had to face the wrath of agonisingly long next six hours where I did manage to twist my legs through the arm rest of adjoining chairs and have a snake sleep of 20 minutes at a stretch in 4 -5 multiples.
The only good thing that had happened in my earlier flight was that the pressure difference had blown my ear drums, so was immune to bad jokes which people around me were cracking. Finally we heard the boarding announcement of our flight. The security check in guy gave me paperbooklet tickets which reminded me of my parents LTA tours in 1990's.
Any ways so took that ticket booklet to find my ride for next 4 hours. It looked a normal Boeing (small one) except for the fact that size of the gate was like a narrow lane that you had to turn and slip in .The seats were categorized for Males and females in the labels.
The rows were A, C, L, K, and J. I am sure somebody had rooted the rows missing in dirty some fight.
SO after all the pushing and jostling through the narrow lane I took a sigh of relief on my window seat. I having a very bad throat was coughing, and just realised the 50 years old Negro fat woman sitting next to me .It seemed she had strong feelings for me since the moment I arrived.
SHE HATED ME, cause I had a bad throat and I did not accept her streusels and I was quiet vis a vis her loud behavior. A guy from team crossed and talked to me for 2-3 minutes wherein she pushed him away .Any ways I was tiered and dosed off to sleep. Within some time I heard noises, saw through narrowly opened eyes this lady was complaining to people that I talked too much and wanted to swap seats with my colleague which eventually he obeyed. And we flew.......
Bebera:-
Post Gulf of Aden, The sight of land first bought some relief to us at 40,000 feet, all tiered and rusted form this long journey, but relief was short lived.
As the plane descended it became clear we were heading for somewhere in nowhere. We seemed to be entering the most challenging venues of Man vs Wild episodes. The whole country seemed to have one camouflaged road, no people, no houses, no vegetation, no animals, no movement; even air seemed to be stationary for years.
Though there were brownish blots of carcasses of herbs wilted, crumpled and crashed and dried by ruthless sun in this vastness which seemed to know no boundaries.
The plane kept loosing elevation, all sorts of thoughts clouded our heads...were we being highjaked.....or engine was not running and was having an emergency landing .But from within the yellow, a camouflaged runway came to our rescue and our flight landed.
While the plane was receding I noticed one more carcass, only this time it was not of a plant. It was a door less, windowless, airplane that seemed to have broken wheels as it was lying with full body touching the ground IT reminded of hijacked IC 814 also coincidentally there is a place called Qandahar in Somaliland... We had entered Somaliland, the land of pirates. They seemed to have kept this airplane a sign of Airport. There were no lights on runway, no marks for direction, any ways these expectations were too high as I was just about to face something even more bamboozling that missing lights and marks.
As the Plane skidded to a halt and doors opened, I saw nothing. There was no airport
Only runway and 2 cars to receive us on the runway, other than that there was a mini bus and a luggage car.
It seemed to have nothing than a broken Plane and a runway in 10-20 km vast stretch easily visible.
On the way to the door people asked us why you are going here...as if we were entering a forbidden kingdom sorts
As we got down. Two land cruisers and a Hillux were waiting for us. A black guy got out said he wanted our passports
We were a little hesitant but he said he would go to airport and get our luggage and there is no need for any immigration check required. so I turned around to see are which was so far on my back side blocked by the plane , a 2 room Flat being called a airport whose open roof toilet was outside.
He asked for our luggage stamps but then finally it came down to just identify your stuff and take it. No rules...applied
This was country of pirates was showing its colours.
The driver of the car looked at us in same awe with which I would look at a Tiger in National Park kind of saying I know you people exist, but it’s good to see you in real. So 2 Land Cruisers and a Hilux Packed to capacity shooted off towards Land, the Somaliland. We were cruising in an area of reflections and mirages, the right and left front and back all looked same, dead dried, and burnt.
The moment we left the airport with in 10 Km two check posts came, where in there were people carrying guns, but were not in uniform. With their shirt buttons opened came storming to the driver asking for money. We were a little anxious but then we had a gunman for security who handled with a little bribe. Even check post was painted manually on the 4 feet wall.
This seemed to be Toyota Land, only Crowns, Grant, Mark 2, Hilus and land cruisers were passing by. Nothing else. After 20-30 Kms travelling we notices still there were no Power lines, no street lights.
After around 50 Km for the first time we saw broken buildings a few tin Huts and a few people half clad. It seemed like a perfect place to shoot an ad for UNO grants. Any ways the city was further different than what I expected.
Hagias
After quick lunch where in we could not eat much as the fish seemed to have dies of frost bite and camel seemed to have decayed, somehow a beans curry was saviours after 18 hours of journey. We expected a mud hut kind of hotel somehow managing toilet like premium services.
City had changed colours by evening, AT hotel entrance we had seen a tennis court at the entrance, a gym, an open air restaurant .Evening the temperature of this dry arid land dropped like anything and turned it into a mini Bangalore
The waiters and drivers here were full of confidence and hospitality, they shook hands without hesitation, and all waiters first asked how are you? While they talked like they were doing a shaggy zip zap song, there body also moved in same rhythm. This land has been a suppressed repressed by Ottoman Empire, followed by Brit and Italians, but even till date I am amused to see people being so warm and nice.
My hotel had its own power generator 24 hours, they was no state electricity supply. Hotel Area had been carefully woven with green area, surrounding pomegranates trees made you feel better and fresh.
Food was interesting here all vegetarian food was inorganic as everything was imported only Animal food was very healthy as they ate healthy grass, with no fertilizer.
When my colleague asked at ticket booking office when does the flight arrive he as surprises to hear answer - Takriban 5-6 baje. A lot of people here are educated in India and Pakistan. The ahmed is akhmed in pronounciation, the british and Italians did not do anything for this country other than leaving behind rules of left hand drive .the whole city had principally one shop for books, one for clothes, one for shoes, one for handicrafts and so on . Population of 3.5 Million people being served like this is surprising to see. Alcohol is banned in the city .and as of now I could see a lot of energy in the city as their independence day is 2 day ahead only. They had achieved independence from Somali only 20 years ago.
City was purified by arzaan 5 times a day and whole city prayed during those times. People in offices (if they could be called offices) went for a 4 hour break from 12-4 1 hour lunch followed by prayer, still followed by a nap of 1 hr.
In my customer office the office boy shook hands like a rapper with CTO and moved across the office in dancing waves. This city had, no money, no stable power, no governance, no work and no hope, yet it lived, it breathed it seemed happy and hospitable .It was a happy third world. Strangely enough that did not steal.
A little stroll in the city I evening would surprise you as you would find people sitting on money transfers sitting on road side on open tables with stacks of money 1-2 feet high. Gold was sold on road side on open table too.
President house had just 1 guard sitting callously outside on wall. Must be a very secure place I believe.
I did come across a couple of UNICEF Bill board and WHO Office, but was highly disappointed with these organisations. I could not imagine why they were working here at a crawling rate, 20 years post independence and still it seemed it was only yesterday.
Our Customers office was the tallest building around I guess it was 5 floors. I loved the way people talk here, the guard the driver everyone was so keen on saying "you go out everyone will say hello and no one will hurt or steal its very safe... yeahmaaan!!"(Yes that the way they talk, and strangely some waiters put a hand on your back in friendly manner while asking for order
Any ways as the city was so pollution free the night sky was damn scintillating. Whenever you had dinner outside as the stars were so close you ended up discussing about astrology. Cosmology. And life and higher perspective and suddenly realise what a meek and insignificant creature were we. And came the realisation we might be the most beautifully intelligent creature created but it was so small in the vastness and this thought was so heavy that you had to sleep for at least 8 hours to recover from it.
Any ways I spent interesting time in this city. I wish I come back her something like 20 years from now and see a different face of it. It has a port and I know Ethiopia has only one sea Port. I think if they work on it this can become the hub of business to and from North Africa .Even allot of stuff can be routed to Ethiopia. I mean there was still Hope.
SO here I leave this city admits all the celebration of 18 May - Independence day , with a hope seeing it again some time when it has moved to being a second world country but I sincerely hope this country's warm happiness is not diluted in the process.
Heading to Kenya .....less see what it has in store.......
Cheers
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